S1-E61: New Caledonia: Bitter Reef

In September 1774, Captain Cook’s expedition continues its exploration of New Caledonia, a vast island whose stark beauty quickly reveals its hidden difficulties.

Shortly after arriving, several members of the expedition fall seriously ill after eating reef fish poisoned by a toxin now known as ciguatera. The sickness leaves the naturalists weak and dizzy—an especially cruel misfortune in a land that promises so many new discoveries.

Despite their condition, they venture ashore to study the island. What they find is a landscape unlike the lush islands of the central Pacific. Much of the coastal plain appears dry and sparsely populated, with only scattered huts among swamps and narrow fields. Food seems scarce, and many inhabitants survive on fish, shellfish, and simple plant foods.

European naturalists explore the sparse plains of New Caledonia in 1774, where illness, unfamiliar customs, and a harsh landscape challenge Cook’s expedition. – Click on the image to listen to this episode on YouTube.

Yet the island also reveals fascinating cultural details: houses lined with bark cloth, tools crafted from wood and stone, and burial sites marked by towering shells. Meanwhile, Lieutenant Pickersgill’s expedition to the nearby island of Balabia brings both friendly exchanges and a moment of deep misunderstanding when islanders suspect the sailors of cannibalism.

Before departing, Captain Cook leaves pigs with a local family—hoping to introduce a new source of food. With storms approaching and their health still fragile, the expedition prepares to sail onward.